Shark Project 29th Sep - 13th Oct

My third volunteer placement in S. Africa was on a shark cage diving boat. I was initially apprehensive about doing the volunteering. Not because I am afraid of sharks but because I wasn't sure just how eco friendly such an operation would be. I thought I am not sure if I agree with shark cage diving, but the only way to be sure is to actually do it..

I arrived at 7 in the morning and was immediately asked if I wanted to go straight out on one of the cage dives. I thought 'Does the pope shit in the woods? Is a bear Catholic?'. So I quickly got everything I needed and within half an hour we were scooting out to the sharks.

I had been told that the shark diving was great by people who I had met along the garden route but the sharks were slightly smaller than they expected - about 2 metres. I was also told that you may have to wait around a while before the sharks come. When we anchored it took about 5 minutes before a 3m shark came along - these things are big!

After taking lots of crap photos with my camera of sharks biting bait and the seal decoy it was my turn to go into the cage. I got changed and put on one of the wetsuits provided which was like getting into a combination straight-jacket/corset (not that I have done either!) I then put on boots, mask and a weight belt. Contrary to what people think, shark cage diving does not involve going down in full scuba gear 50 ft below the water. The cage is on the top of the surface and you just sit in it on above the water until a shark comes close, at which point you hold your breath and duck down into the water.

I struggled into the cage and sat there trying not to drown alongside 4 other people. Then the first shark came along and the crew shouted 'divers down at the front'. So down I went - only I did it too late to see the shark. For the next 10 mins everytime I was told to get down I did it too late: 'Down at the front', down I went - gone. 'Divers down left', down, gone. 'Divers down at the right' down, gone.

I was just about to give up entirely when I finally went down at the right moment and there it was passing the cage about 2 metres away. It was a fantastic view but for that particular dive it was about the only one I got. The visibility in the water meant that it was very hard to see sharks underwater. I got out of the cage and soon we were back on dry land.

That was over a week ago now but it seems like a lifetime. I have been out on the boat everyday except one as a volunteer crew hand. Its tough work but we have gotten great views of sharks every day and I have been down in the cage 2 more times. I am still trying to get that ultimate photo of the shark coming out of the water and I still haven't gotten a better view then the first day in the cage but I have 5 more days and a lot more boat trips before I leave.

This is what could happen when I am in the cage.



Cool eh!

Volunteer tasks:

As well as helping prepare the boat for each voyage and cleaning it down afterwards (which is quite tedious and exhausting) a volunteer gets to do some of the following tasks on the voyage:

Data collection which basically means taking photos of any distinguishing features of the fish and noting down size, sex etc. Usually reserved for long term volunteers (ie Kevin).

Helping people put on and take off their wet suits. The advantage of this is that you get to help some rather cute ladies on with their equipment. The disadvantage is that for every nice BBB you get to do you get 2 GGG's

Chumming: Not a weird sexual act but what you do to attract sharks to the boat. It involves mashing up large pieces of fish in a large plastic bin so that bits fall into the water. To do this you have to be right at the back of the boat on a platform that regularly gets submerged. You also have to get buckets of water from the sea to mix with the mashed fish so that it leaks out the side. Oh - one other thing you have to do when chumming is push away any sharks that decide to start biting the back of the boat!

Other tasks include: Helping put the cage into the water and helping retrieve it. Helping weigh anchor and Cutting up bait.

If after all that there is a chance to get in the cage you pop on a wetsuit and in ya go!

One other task that a volunteer has to do is go out and drink! I had thought that as you were having to work on a boat you would just be expected to sit in each night. Not on your nelly! I've been out just about every night to Gansbaai drinking in one establishment or the other. The days we haven't been out at bars we have been at peoples houses for braais. You still have to get up at 7 the next morning, go prepare the boat and then go out in 10 feet high swells so its not for people with a weak disposition!


Glossary Update:

A:
Awesome: Adjective: Really good, Fantastic Awesome is a word that seems to be used by Americans to describe anything from a nice sandwich to the Grand Canyon. The word should be reserved for things such as Shark Cage diving, swimming with dolphins, Skydiving or 3 in the bed sex with two super models. I've done one - only 3 to go!

Things I have learnt:

If you are going to throw up at sea ensure that you remove your false teeth first. Something one of the clients failed to do on one of the trips. His false teeth are probably being used by one of the sharks right now.

Always remember to put sunscreen on BEFORE you handle the shark bait and not after! Eau de fish.

Throwing a bucket of chum at somebody requires a technique which I obviously have not mastered - as the chum ended up all over me!

Lists update: 29th Sep

Lists Update: 29th Sep: Mostly for my own benefit

Beers I have drunk:
Mitchells Bosum Bitter: 3.9%
Mitchells Old Wobbly: 11% (YES 11%)
Mitchells 90shillings (can't remember what % after the wobbly!)


Lost / Broken Items:

One tent and carry mat which I donated at Long Street Backpackers. The tent had served its purpose and was really cumbersome so I decided to donate it to help with a local childrens charity. It will probably be sold to get some money for a new school.

Animals:

Cape Fur Seal. 18th Sep Pletteneurg (p)
Loads of them all along Robenberg Peninsula.

Southern Right Whale: 18th Sep Plettenberg
Away out at sea but quite good views.

Rock Dassie (hyrax): 20th Sep Wilderness
They are rabbit sized relatives of the elephant..

Birds:

Back to making my own identifications - which means that the bird list will be reduced!

Kelp Gull 18th Sep Plettenberg

Black Oystercatcher: 18th Sep Plettenberg

White Fronted Plover: 18th Sep Plettenberg (p)

Little Stint: 18th Sep Plettenberg

Speckled Pigeon: 18th Sep Plettenberg

Pied Crow: 19th Sep Wilderness

Malachite Kingfisher 20th Sep Wilderness

Yellow-tufted Malachite Sunbird: 18th Sep Plettenberg (p)

African Penquin: 25th Sep Cape Horn

Cape Town Water Front: 28th Sep

The Plan was brilliant in its conception:

1. Book into St Johns backpackers.
2. Walk down to the waterfront and have a look around.
3. Go to Mitchells bar and watch the Man City Game while partaking in a quiet pint.

Step 1 was no problem. I got a taxi with my stuff across the city and placed it in the dorm.

Unfortunately step 2 did not go according to plan as in order to get to the waterfront you have to pass mitchells bar. Something which my weak body was unable to do.

An hour and 2 pints later (one of which was called old wobbly at 11%) I managed to pull myself away from F1 coverage being shown and start walking round the area.

The Waterfront is very nice and very touristy and is full of restaurants, cafes and endless shopping malls. I hated it.

I passed by a large pool where kids and adults can run around in an inflatable air tight bubble. I decided that it would be prudent not to try it out as in my delicate shape I was likely to perform a multicoloured yawn while inside one.

Vomit bubbles


After the antics of the night before I was basically still half-cut and an 11% pint of beer did not help matters. I ended up going round the shopping malls thinking to myself. "I am still Drunk! and I need a dump" In fact it became a little tune in my head. "I'm still drunk - and I need a dump!, I'm still drunk and I need a dump" After 15 minutes of searching I found a toilet and the tune thankfully changed to "I'm still drunk. I'm still drunk"

After another 15 minutes I was bored with looking at endless shops and went looking for something better. I eventually came across the aquarium and boought a ticket to walk around for about an hour before going back to watch the match.

Its not actually a bad aquarium - a bit small and it could do with more info on the fish but at least it did not have any performing dolphins or seals.

Finally the match was on and it was back to Mitchells! The game was crap - Man City lost 2-1 to Wigan! Wigan I ask ye! I went back to my hostel in a very bad mood and it wasn't helped by finding out that I was to be picked up at 4:30 in the morning to be taken to the shark diving!

I had my first early night in two weeks - bed at 9:30 and then it was off to start diving with sharks!

Things I have learnt:

Always put your hair clippers near the top of your rucksack. That way, when they go off by mistake, you are not frantically pulling everything out of your rucksack in an effort to turn them. I think the other people in the dorm thought I had a vibrator stuffed into my pack.

I have resigned myself to the fact that if I am sleeping on a bottom bunk in a dorm I will ALWAYS hit my head on the top bunk when getting up in the morning. The force I hit my head is also directly proportional to the amount of alcohol I had the previous day.